If there’s one thing we love at The Curvy Fashionista, it’s seeing fashion that empowers. So when the plus-size-positive movie Empire Waist hit our radar, we couldn’t help but fall in love with how it portrayed the beauty, confidence, and power that comes with owning your style, regardless of size.
And who better to talk about this than the costume designer herself, Francesca Roth? We sat down with the film’s costume designer to get the inside scoop on how she worked her magic to bring the film’s characters to life—wardrobe first, of course!
Dressing for Confidence—With a Side of Magic
Francesca Roth didn’t just dress the characters of Empire Waist—she empowered them. Roth shares how the costumes were more than just clothes; they were transformative tools that helped the cast embody their roles, and sometimes, even reshape how they felt about their own bodies. “I think it becomes a space that helps turn a personal discomfort into confidence,” she says. That’s the magic of costume design.
Whether it’s a pair of jeans that work perfectly for Marcy (played by Daisy Washington), who uses a wheelchair, or the iconic final dress worn by Lenore (played by Mia Kaplan), Roth ensures that each look represents both the character’s personality and their growth throughout the film.
And the challenges? Roth didn’t shy away from those either. “The challenge is that most clothes today are made for such a narrow range of idealized body types,” she notes. Sound familiar, fashion lovers? Empire Waist faced these hurdles head-on, showing the reality of finding clothes that actually fit and flatter in an industry still playing catch-up with inclusivity.
A Cast as Diverse as the Wardrobe
We’ve got to talk about that gorgeous and diverse cast. With so many different body types, Roth had her work cut out for her. But, like the pro she is, she took it all in stride. She revealed that a lot of the magic came from understanding how each actor moved through the world and how they expressed themselves through style. “I lean into their style and personality as strengths to make their character more dynamic,” she says.
The end result? A range of wardrobe pieces that felt true to the characters—and, most importantly, that felt authentic to the actors wearing them.
Take Kayla, for example, who gets her Clueless-inspired debut outfit. Roth shares how the over-the-top plaid skirt and faux-fur coat were pieced together from not one, but two skirts sewn together to accommodate sizing. Roth’s flexibility and ingenuity highlight the real struggle of finding on-trend, plus size clothes that fit properly. But the finished product? Pure gold!
Designing for the Plus Size Body—It’s All About the Fit
One of Roth’s key opportunities in Empire Waist was dressing plus size bodies in a way that was both defining and narratively impactful. “Often there’s a discrepancy between the sizes we think we should wear and what size we actually need,” she shares. Oh, Francesca, we feel that struggle!
Roth took the time to get to know each actor, asking about their measurements, their favorite brands, and how they personally feel about their bodies. This meticulous attention to detail ensured that every costume not only fit but flattered.
The Iconic Looks: From “Clueless” Homage to the Showstopper Dress
When it came to dressing plus size characters, Roth made sure that each outfit felt intentional and empowering. The solution to ill-fitting garments? Alterations, alterations, alterations! And let’s just say, Kayla’s two-skirt combo was far from the only example of Roth getting creative with a needle and thread.
Okay, we couldn’t talk to Roth without fangirling over some of the film’s most iconic looks. Her personal favorite? Kayla’s Clueless-inspired ensemble that was both dramatic and so true to her character’s arc. “It’s Kayla’s ‘Clueless’ moment,” Roth gushes, citing Mona May, the legendary designer behind the original Clueless costumes. Finding a colorful faux-fur coat during a pandemic wasn’t easy, but Roth pulled it off.
And then, there’s the pièce de résistance: Lenore’s final dress. This custom-made beauty is the epitome of character development, representing Lenore’s journey toward self-love. Designed with a metallic pastel fabric, it was created in just five days, but the impact? Chef’s kiss.
As Roth puts it, “The dress is meant to represent Lenore’s growth toward loving herself and accepting her body.” And if you ask us, that’s exactly what it does.
Indie Designers, Are You Listening?
Plus size indie designers, take note! Roth is on the lookout for you. While the costume department often turns to big-box retailers for ease and quick returns, she encourages indie designers to slide into her inbox. “Never underestimate the power of the cold email,” she says, offering a cheeky wink to up-and-coming designers.
Roth keeps a list of designers and brands she loves and would be happy to reach out when the right project comes along. So, if you’ve got a unique, size-inclusive line, what are you waiting for? Closed mouths don’t get fed… right?
Empire Waist isn’t just a film about fashion, body positivity, or high school drama—it’s about all of these things and more. And Francesca Roth’s costume design brought this story to life in a way that only a true visual storyteller could. Through her dedication to making every character’s wardrobe feel authentic and empowering, Roth ensured that Empire Waist isn’t just a movie. It’s a movement.
For our fellow Curvy Fashionistas out there looking to express yourselves, take a page out of Roth’s playbook: be unapologetic, get creative, and, as Roth would say, if you love it—don’t hesitate!
What do you think of Francesca Roth’s work in Empire Waist? Are you excited to see the film’s stylish take on body positivity? Let us know in the comments!
